3D Printing FAQ

PLA is the best starting point. It's forgiving, widely available, affordable, and prints well at lower temperatures without requiring an enclosure. Once you're comfortable, PETG is a great next step for parts that need more durability or heat resistance.

PLA — easy to print, great for display pieces and decorative prints. PETG — stronger, slightly flexible, more heat-resistant, good for functional parts. ABS — tough and heat-resistant but warps easily and needs an enclosure + ventilation. For most hobbyist use cases, PLA or PETG covers 90% of needs.

A few approaches depending on your goal:

• Sanding: Start with 120–220 grit wet/dry sandpaper, work up to 400–800 for a smooth base
• XTC-3D epoxy coating: Fills layer lines and self-levels for a glass-smooth result
• Sandable filler primer: Automotive primer spray, great as a base before painting

Note: acetone doesn't work on PLA (only ABS). Stick to sanding and epoxy for PLA prints.

1. Sand with 220 grit to knock down layer lines
2. Apply 2–3 coats of sandable filler primer, sanding between coats with 400 grit
3. Apply your base color in thin coats
4. Detail paint with acrylics (Vallejo, Citadel, or craft paint all work)
5. Seal with matte or gloss varnish depending on the finish you want

For articulated figures, avoid getting varnish inside joints — it can fuse the movement.

Print-in-place (PIP) models come off the printer already assembled and functional — no glue, no support removal, no post-assembly required. They're engineered with tiny gaps in the joints that allow movement while still printing as a single object. Articulated dragons, fidget chains, and flexi animals are common examples. It sounds like magic. It is, a little.

Stringing (thin wispy threads between parts) is usually temperature or retraction. Try these in order:

• Lower print temperature by 5°C increments
• Increase retraction distance: 2–6mm (direct drive), 4–8mm (Bowden)
• Enable combing in your slicer to keep the nozzle over the print during travel moves

If none of that fixes it — your filament is damp. Dry it at 45–50°C for 4–6 hours or use a filament dryer.

• Small figurine (5–7cm), 0.2mm layers: 2–4 hours
• Larger articulated model: 8–16 hours
• 0.3–0.4mm layer height: significantly faster with minor quality tradeoff

Modern fast printers like the Bambu Lab P1S have changed the game — what used to be a 10-hour print often runs in 3–4 hours now.

• Layer height: 0.15–0.2mm for quality, 0.3mm for speed
• Print temperature: Follow filament specs, usually 200–220°C for PLA
• Wall count: 3+ walls for strong parts
• Infill: 15–20% for display pieces, 40%+ for functional parts
• Supports: Tree supports waste less material and remove easier than grid

Your slicer's default profiles are a solid starting point — tune from there based on what you're printing.

Yes, with some nuances. Original designs you made yourself — sell freely. Licensed STL files — most commercial licenses allow selling the physical print, but not reselling the digital file. Check before listing. Fan art of existing IP (anime, game franchises) — selling commercially carries real legal risk. Original designs and properly licensed files are the safe path.

FDM melts plastic filament layer by layer — fast, affordable, easy to maintain, produces durable parts. Layer lines are visible at standard settings but can be sanded smooth. Resin uses UV light to cure liquid resin — extreme detail, almost no visible layer lines, great for miniatures. The tradeoff: resin requires ventilation, gloves, proper waste disposal, and more post-processing. For beginners, FDM is the right starting point.